Alternative Baker: Reinventing Dessert with Gluten-Free Grains and Flours - Alanna Taylor-Tobin (2016)
TARTS
I used to loathe baking tarts. Butter was softened only to be mixed into dough and chilled again. The delicate dough was rolled out, fitted into the pan and chilled again. Pie weights were needed to keep the dough aloft, which often slumped and squished down into the pan despite my best efforts. I finally discovered the secret to positive tart experiences in a lemon bar recipe that called for a shortbread-like dough that was simply pressed into the pan. I mixed up the dough, pressed it into a tart pan, and baked it sans pie weights, and voilà—easy-peasy perfect tart crust. I’ve tweaked the recipe many times over the years, and I’ve ditched the wheat flour and added almond, sweet rice and oat flours (plus some alternative variations). I use my stand mixer to work in the cold butter, which gets pressed into the pan straight away. After a quick freeze, into the oven it goes, staying resolutely upright, no weights necessary.
Almond and oat flours make an earthy base for both butterscotchy brown butter crème fraîche custard and peaches, as well as a floral grapefruit custard tart laced with elderflower liqueur. A deep, dark cocoa crust houses a naturally sweetened pecan pie filling bursting with fresh cranberries. Mesquite flour and brown sugar make a wildly flavorful shell for creamy pudding, bananas and salty caramel. Chestnut flour enhances a classic apple tart. And a vegan coconut flour crust adds crunch to Hawaiian-inspired coconut custard and fresh berries.
The tart recipes in this book are some of my favorites, and I hope they become as not-loathed in your kitchen as they have in mine.
NOTE: All tarts in this section should work interchangeably in tart pans of the following dimensions: one 9-inch (23-cm) round tart crust, one 12 by 4-inch (30 by 10-cm) rectangular tart crust or eight 4-inch (10-cm) round tartlet crusts. Adjust the baking time as needed.
VANILLA ALMOND TART CRUST
Work cold butter into the flour mixture to form a crumbly, clumpy dough.
Press the edges into the pan first,
then press the bottom into the pan to form an even layer.
Freeze, then parbake until golden.
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
At a patisserie where I once worked, the owner was so committed to using 100 percent organic ingredients that, because blanched almonds weren’t available organic, some days were spent blanching the nuts for hours at a time. I didn’t mind the task, standing in place and slipping the loose skins off of nuts that had been briefly boiled. But what I did mind was that the majority of the almonds were ground into tart dough. As my preferred glutinous tart dough contains just butter, flour, sugar and salt, the addition of these precious almonds seemed superfluous.
I changed my mind when it came time to make a gluten-free sweet tart dough. Here the almond flour is the magic ingredient that helps the dough hold together with no gums and a minimum of starches. The tiny nubbles of almond give the dough the sandy consistency of fine shortbread, oat flour adds earthy flavor and judicious amounts of sugar and salt bring the taste into balance. Cold butter gets rubbed into the dough with the help of a stand mixer, and the crumbly dough gets pressed right into the pan, no chilling or rolling necessary. As an added bonus, after a brief stint in the freezer, the dough gets baked as is, no pastry weights needed to hold the dough up the sides of the pan. Don’t forget to press the sides and bottom of the hot crust with the back of a spoon, otherwise the delicate crust will be difficult to slice (though still delicious).
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND TART CRUST, ONE 12 BY 4-INCH (30 BY 10-CM) RECTANGULAR TART CRUST OR EIGHT 4-INCH (10-CM) ROUND TARTLET CRUSTS
½ cup (60 g) blanched almond flour (such as Bob’s Red Mill)
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour
2 tbsp (12 g) tapioca flour
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ plus ⅛ tsp fine sea salt
6 tbsp (85 g) cold, unsalted butter, diced into
½-inch (1.3-cm) cubes
1 tsp vanilla extract
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C).
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the almond, sweet rice and oat flours with the tapioca starch, sugar and salt. Scatter the butter pieces over the top and drizzle with the vanilla extract. Turn the mixer to medium-low and run until the dough comes together in clumps and the butter is worked through, 3-5 minutes.
Dump the crumbs into the desired tart pan(s) with removable bottom(s) and press the dough evenly into the pan, starting with the sides and then moving to the bottom, keeping the edges square. (It usually takes me about 10 minutes to make it look pretty.) Prick the bottom of the crust all over with the tines of a fork and freeze until firm, 15-30 minutes.
Place the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until pale golden and firm to the touch (18-22 minutes) for a parbaked crust, or until golden all over (5-10 minutes longer) for a fully baked crust. (If making tartlets, decrease the overall baking time by 5-10 minutes.) Remove the crust from the oven and, while it’s still hot, press the sides and bottom with the back of a spoon. This will help it hold together when cool.
VARIATIONS
COCOA ALMOND
Use ½ cup (45 g) cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-process) in place of the oat flour and decrease the butter to 5 tablespoons (70 g). Since the dough is dark, it can be difficult to tell when the crust is done, so do set a timer and look closely for edges that are beginning to darken and pull away from the sides of the pan. If the chocolate begins to smell at all burnt, remove the crust immediately.
MUSCOVADO MESQUITE
Use ½ cup (60 g) mesquite flour (sifted after measuring to eradicate lumps) in place of the oat flour and ¼ cup (50 g) muscovado (or packed organic light or dark brown) sugar in place of the granulated sugar. Bake this variation at 350°F (175°C) since mesquite flour is more sensitive to temperature than other flours.
CHESTNUT
Use ½ cup (50 g) chestnut flour in place of the oat flour.
See here for a vegan variation made with coconut oil.
A COUPLE OF KEY TECHNIQUES MAKE THIS TART CRUST SHINE
✵ Use a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment to rub cold butter into the dough. A food processor smooths out the almond flour too much and it loses its delicate texture. It takes a good 3-5 minutes for this to happen. Alternatively, use your fingertips to rub the butter into the dough.
✵ Take the time to press the dough evenly into the pan, starting with the sides and then moving to the bottom, keeping the edges square. In a 9-inch (23-cm) round pan, the dough will be about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. You can use a flat-bottomed glass to press the bottom of the dough smooth.
✵ When the dough has finished baking and is still hot, use the back of a spoon to gently but firmly press the bottom and sides of the crust. This will help it hold together better.
COCONUT CREAM AND RASPBERRY TART {VEGAN}
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, COCONUT}
This tart gets a triple dose of coconut: coconut flour and oil in the crust and coconut milk in the filling. Fresh raspberries perch atop a vanilla-flecked coconut milk custard, all nestled into a coconut flour crust that tastes like a cross between a macaroon and shortbread. A smear of chocolate keeps the crust crisp and pairs well with both the coconut and the berries. The whole thing is so satisfying in taste and texture that no one will ever suspect it of being both vegan and gluten-free. This crust is similar in method to the Vanilla Almond Tart Crust but with a few differences. A bit of water is necessary to help the dough stick together when baked; without, it crumbles into oblivion. Also, a light coating of cooking spray or oil is needed to prevent the stickier dough from adhering to the pan. Feel free to use this crust for any of the tarts in this book. And if you can’t find fresh raspberries, top the tart with sliced strawberries, other summer berries, or Honey Candied Kumquats instead.
MAKES ONE 12 BY 4-INCH (30 BY 10-CM) RECTANGULAR TART OR ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND TART, 8-10 SERVINGS
CRUST
Vegetable oil spray or 1 tsp melted coconut oil, for the pan
½ cup (60 g) blanched almond flour
⅓ cup (50 g) sweet white rice flour
⅓ cup (40 g) coconut flour
¼ cup (45 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ plus ⅛ tsp fine sea salt
7 tbsp (80 g) coconut oil (at cool room temperature or lightly chilled)
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp (30 ml) cold water
2 oz (55 g) bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about ⅓ cup)
FILLING
1 (13.5-oz [400-ml]) can full-fat coconut milk
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
3 tbsp (35 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3 tbsp (18 g) cornstarch Pinch of fine sea salt
2 pints (340 g) fresh raspberries, or enough to cover the top of the tart in a single layer
To make the crust, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Lightly spray a 12 by 4-inch (30 by 10-cm) rectangular tart pan or a 9-inch (23-cm) round tart pan with a removable bottom with cooking spray or brush it with a teaspoon of melted coconut oil.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the almond, sweet rice and coconut flours with the sugar and salt. Scatter the coconut oil in clumps over the top and drizzle with the vanilla extract. Beat on medium-low speed until the coconut oil is evenly incorporated and the dough looks clumpy, 2-3 minutes. With the mixer running, slowly drizzle in the cold water, mixing until the dough comes together in large clumps. Dump the crumbly dough into the prepared tart pan and press the dough evenly into the pan, starting with the sides and then moving to the bottom, keeping the edges square. Prick the bottom of the crust all over with the tines of a fork and freeze until firm, 15-30 minutes.
Place the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden all over, 20-25 minutes. Remove the crust from the oven and, while it’s still hot, scatter the chopped chocolate over the bottom of the crust. Let the chocolate melt, 1 minute, then use the back of a small spoon to spread the melted chocolate over the bottom and up the sides of the crust. Let cool to room temperature, then chill until the chocolate is set, 10-20 minutes.
To make the filling, combine the coconut milk and vanilla pod and scrapings in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the milk is hot and steamy (don’t let it boil or it may scorch or separate). Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 10 minutes or up to 1 hour to infuse with the vanilla.
Meanwhile, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch and salt in a small bowl. When the coconut milk has steeped, whisk a few tablespoons of the coconut milk into the cornstarch mixture to make a slurry, then whisk the slurry into the warm coconut milk. Cook the pudding over medium heat, whisking constantly and making sure to scrape the bottom and corners of the pot, until it comes to a low boil. Still stirring, boil for 1-2 minutes; it should be the texture of yogurt. Immediately strain the pudding through a mesh sieve and into a heatproof measuring pitcher. Pour the hot coconut cream into the chocolate-lined tart shell, spreading it evenly and taking care not to disturb the melty chocolate. Chill until set, 2 hours.
When ready to serve, release the sides from the pan by pushing the tart bottom upward, and slide the tart onto a large cutting board. Top the tart with the raspberries. Cut into pieces and serve.
PEACH BROWN BUTTER CRÈME FRAÎCHE TART
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
My sweetie and I were once taken to a ritzy San Francisco restaurant where one prix-fixe meal costs more than we spend on groceries in a month. Expecting an evening full of cozy decadence, we were disappointed when the first dish brought to us was a bowl of torn fish stomach served on a gelée made from the unfortunate fish’s own juices and topped with its roe. After a dozen courses, each making us squirm more than the last, we staggered home, pondering whether foodies are so jaded, so weary of pork belly and truffles and hand-rolled pasta, that they need to be served fish innards for a gustatory thrill.
This tart is pretty much the opposite. It’s as comfy as a slice of peach pie topped with vanilla ice cream, only reconfigured and fancied up a bit. A cookie-like crust crumbles against tangy, butterscotch-flavored custard that envelops tender peaches. Eating a slice warm from the oven is a little like slipping on a pair of sweats after sitting in a fancy restaurant for five hours in a tight dress eating fish innards. But nice sweats. Designer yoga pants, say. This tart is a crowd-pleaser, but with enough little twists to hold the interest of even the most jaded foodie.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8-10 SERVINGS
CRUST
One 9-inch (23-cm) Vanilla Almond Tart Crust, parbaked
FILLING
6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
1 lb (450 g) ripe but firm peaches (3-4 medium)
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 1 tbsp (10 g) for sprinkling
2 tbsp (17 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ tsp fine sea salt
1 large egg
½ cup (120 ml) Crème Fraîche or sour cream
Powdered sugar (optional, for dusting)
For the crust, prepare and parbake the crust as directed.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Place the parbaked tart crust on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper for easy cleanup.
To make the filling, place the butter and vanilla pod and scrapings in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, swirling occasionally. After about 3-5 minutes, the butter will foam up, turn golden and smell nutty, with brown flecks mingling with black vanilla bean seeds on the bottom of the pan. At this point, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter into a heatproof measuring cup to stop the cooking, and let cool for 5 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and discard.
Meanwhile, halve the peaches and remove the pits. Cut each half into 6 wedges; you should have about 3 cups of sliced peaches.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the ¼ cup (50 g) sugar, rice flour and salt. Whisk in the egg until smooth, then the crème fraîche. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the browned butter. Pour the custard into the crust. Arrange the peach wedges over the custard in concentric circles and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon (10 g) sugar.
Bake the tart until the custard is gently puffed and pale golden around the edges, and mostly set when you give the pan a shuffle, 30-40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely, at least 1 hour and up to several hours. Remove the sides of the tart pan by placing it on a large can or small inverted bowl and gently loosening. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired. Place the tart on a cutting board, cut into wedges and serve. The tart is best within the first 2 days of baking when the crust is crisp, but it will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.
NOTE: If you’re new to browning butter, see how it’s done on.
CARAMELIZED FIG AND WHIPPED HONEY YOGURT TARTLETS
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
These tarts carry the Mediterranean flavors of almond, orange blossom, honey and fresh figs. Dusting the figs with sugar and torching the tops mellows their bite just a bit, adds a touch of smoky sweetness and brings the tart components together into one luscious late-summer dessert. Buttery tart shells contrast cool and tangy whipped yogurt kissed with honey and orange blossom water, all nestled up against juicy figs. These must be assembled to order, lest the crust and burnt sugar soften prematurely, but guests will love watching the sugar sizzle as you torch the fruit.
MAKES EIGHT 4-INCH (10-CM) INDIVIDUAL TARTLETS OR ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8-10 SERVINGS
CRUST
8 (4-inch [10-cm]) fully baked Vanilla Almond Tartlet Crusts, cooled
FILLING
¾ cup (180 g) plain whole-milk Greek yogurt (such as Straus Family Creamery) or skyr (such as Siggi’s)
¾ cup (180 ml) heavy cream
3 tbsp (45 ml) honey
¾ tsp orange blossom water, or more to taste (optional)
16 medium-small ripe but firm figs (about
1 lb [450 g])
8 tsp (32 g) organic granulated cane sugar (for caramelizing the figs)
For the crust, prepare and bake the tartlet shells as directed. When cool, remove the tart crusts from their pans and place on a large cutting board.
To make the filling, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, combine the yogurt, cream, honey and orange blossom water. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture holds firm peaks. (Alternatively, beat with a sturdy wire whisk or hand beater in a large bowl.) Cover and chill until needed, up to several hours. Re-whip if the mixture has separated.
Divide the whipped yogurt among the baked, cooled tartlet crusts, filling them nearly to the top and spreading the yogurt into an even layer.
Slice the figs lengthwise ⅛-inch (3-mm) thick, discarding the round ends and keeping the slices together. Fan the slices over the yogurt-filled tart crust, curving the slices with the tart sides to form a ring of overlapping slices. Sprinkle the figs on each tart with 1 teaspoon sugar. Use a kitchen torch to burn the sugar, holding it straight down and several inches away from the figs, until the sugar is golden and bubbling. As you work, wave the torch in small circles. If the sugar blackens, hold the torch farther away.
Repeat with the remaining tartlets and serve right away (or chill for up to 30 minutes).
NOTE: If you don’t have a kitchen torch, don’t despair: place the fig slices in an even layer on a baking sheet, sprinkle with the sugar and place under the broiler until the sugar has caramelized, a minute or two. Scrape the figs off the pan and over the tarts for a messier—though still tasty—presentation. Or skip the sugar altogether and top the fresh figs with a drizzle of honey.
APPLE CHESTNUT TART WITH SALTY CARAMEL
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, CHESTNUT}
The classic apple tart is the soul of simplicity, epitomizing French baking at its finest. I learned to make it while working at an organic French-style bakery in San Francisco. Thinly sliced apples are nestled into an unbaked tart shell, topped with a bit of butter and sugar, and given a long bake. The juices from the apples mix with the butter and sugar, and the submerged apples bake into a chunky jamlike texture while the tips caramelize and retain a bit of bite.
Against a crumbly crust warm from earthy chestnut flour and topped with gooey caramel, this updated version makes a sensational dessert for fall and winter months, especially when served warm from the oven with Whipped Crème Fraîche or Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Store leftovers airtight in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. If you’re short on time or crave a more traditional finish, skip the caramel and brush the tart with a few tablespoons of apricot jam loosened with a few drops of water, heated and strained.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8-10 SERVINGS
CRUST
One 9-inch (23-cm) Chestnut Tart Crust, unbaked and frozen
FILLING
5 medium-sized tart, firm baking apples, such as Granny Smith or Belle de Boskoop (1¾ lb [800 g])
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, in small pieces
½ cup (120 ml) Salty Caramel (any variation, at room temperature or warm enough to drizzle
For the crust, prepare and freeze the tart crust as directed.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Place the frozen, unbaked tart crust on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper for easy cleanup.
To make the filling, use a T-shaped vegetable peeler to peel the apples. Cut the flesh off the core in large chunks, cutting close to the core (alternatively, halve and core the apples). Cut each chunk or half into slices as thin as possible, about ⅛-inch (3-mm) thick, keeping the slices together and discarding the rounded edges. Fan the slices out lengthwise slightly and place them, cut side facing the center of the tart, around the outside of the shell, tucking the last apple under the first to make a continuous loop. Repeat with a second layer just inside the first, reversing the fan if you like, and continue until you’ve filled the tart, tucking in as many of the extra pieces as you can; the apples will reduce a lot as they cook. Sprinkle all over with the sugar and dot with the butter.
Bake the tart until the tips of the apples are bronzed and the fruit is bubbling furiously, 65-75 minutes. There’s a fine line between cooking the apples all the way and burning the crust, so keep an eye on that as well and remove the tart early if the crust becomes too dark.
Let the tart cool most of the way, 1 hour, then drizzle all over with the caramel and serve warm or at room temperature. The tart is best the day of baking and will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day. Store leftovers, refrigerated airtight, for up to 2 days.
NOTE: A T-shaped vegetable peeler is my favorite tool for peeling apples. And rather than halving the apples and cutting out their core, I like to simply hold the apple stem side up on a cutting board and cut off large chunks, cutting as close to the core as possible, cutting around the apple until all the flesh is removed.
CHOCOLATE CRANBERRY PECAN TART
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE}
Pecan pie is a tricky dessert. The filling, a custard made from eggs, butter, sugar and corn syrup, can be toothachingly sweet and unhealthy to boot. I trade out the refined sugars for muscovado and maple syrup, both of which, in addition to containing trace minerals that refined sugars lack, add depth of flavor that kicks corn syrup to the curb. Shards of dark chocolate work with a salt-kissed cocoa crust to deliver a punch of flavor, and cranberries provide the perfect bright counterpoint to the richness of chocolate and nuts, bursting brightly like fresh raspberries. (In fact, raspberries make a fine stand-in when cranberries aren’t around.) This tart gained cult status among my followers, which included people who “find chocolate desserts boring” and others who “don’t have a sweet tooth.” These people fought over slices. When you try a wedge of buttery crust, gooey pecans and tart cranberries topped with a plume of Maple Bourbon Whipped Cream, you’ll see why.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND TART, 10-12 SERVINGS
CRUST
One 9-inch (23-cm) Cocoa Almond Tart Crust parbaked and hot
FILLING
1 cup (100 g) raw pecan halves
2 tbsp (15 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) packed dark muscovado sugar or packed organic dark brown sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
2 large eggs
¼ cup (60 ml) maple syrup
1 tsp vanilla extract
4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter, melted
½ cup (85 g) roughly chopped bittersweet chocolate (preferably 70% cacao mass)
1 cup (90 g) fresh or frozen cranberries, halved
Maple Bourbon Whipped Cream for serving
For the crust, prepare and parbake the tart crust as directed.
To make the filling, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C).
Spread the pecans on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast until darkened slightly and fragrant, 10-12 minutes. Cool completely, then use your fingers to break the pecan halves into quarters and eighths.
In a large bowl, whisk together the sweet rice flour, muscovado sugar and salt. Whisk in the eggs, whisking until smooth, then add the maple syrup and vanilla, taking care not to incorporate too much air into the custard. Whisk in the melted butter, then fold in the toasted, cooled pecans.
Sprinkle the chopped chocolate over the bottom of the crust, then the cranberries, and carefully pour in the filling, distributing the nuts evenly.
Bake the tart until the sides are gently puffed and center is wobbly like Jell-O under the nuts and fruit (which will float to the top), 20-30 minutes.
Let cool completely, then cut into slender wedges and serve. Alternatively, chill the tart before cutting into wedges for the cleanest slices, dipping the knife in hot water and wiping it clean between cuts. Serve the tart at room temperature, with a dollop of the whipped cream. The tart is best the day of baking when the crust is crisp, but extras keep well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 4 days.
NOTE: Breaking up the pecans with your fingers rather than chopping creates less dust and keeps the filling pretty and clear.
SALTY CARAMEL BANANA CREAM TART WITH MESQUITE CRUST
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, MESQUITE}
Muscovado sugar and mesquite flour create an earthy base against which creamy custard, ripe bananas and a deep, dark caramel sauce flecked with vanilla bean play. Painting the tart shell with a thin layer of chocolate creates a barrier between the custard and keeps the crust crisp for a day or two. Top slices with an extra pinch or two of flaky salt.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8-10 SERVINGS
CRUST
One 9-inch (23-cm) fully baked Muscovado Mesquite Tart Crust, hot
¼ cup (45 g) finely chopped bittersweet chocolate
FILLING
⅓ cup (65 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3½ tbsp (30 g) cornstarch
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
1½ cups (350 ml) whole milk
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter, in several pieces
3 large ripe but firm bananas (about 1 lb [450 g])
1 recipe Salty Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce, at room temperature
Flaky salt (such as Maldon), for serving
TOPPING
1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 tbsp (10 g) organic granulated cane sugar (to taste)
1 tsp vanilla extract
NOTE: Chocophiles can make this in the Cocoa Almond Tart Crust if preferred.
For the crust, prepare and bake the crust as directed. While still hot, scatter the chocolate pieces over the bottom and let sit for 1 minute to melt the chocolate. Use a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon to spread the chocolate into an even layer all over the bottom and sides of the crust. Let cool until set. The crust can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored airtight at room temperature. When ready to assemble, remove the sides from the pan and place the tart shell on a large plate or serving platter.
To make the filling, in a small saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, salt and vanilla pod and seeds. Whisk in the milk and cream. Bring the mixture to a slow boil over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, making sure to scrape the bottom and corners of the pan with the whisk. Once the mixture comes to a boil, continue cooking and whisking for 1-2 minutes. You’ll have to stop whisking for a few seconds to verify that the pudding is boiling, which you’ll know by the big bubbles that pop gloopily. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter; it should be the consistency of creamy yogurt.
Strain the pudding through a mesh sieve and into a bowl. Press plastic wrap right onto the surface of the pudding, and let cool at room temperature until warm, 30-45 minutes.
When the pudding has cooled, spread half of it into the chocolate-lined tart shell. Slice the bananas ¼-inch (6-mm) thick and layer them evenly over the top, drizzle with 6 tablespoons (90 ml) of the caramel sauce and cover with the remaining pudding. Cover with plastic wrap pressed to the surface of the pudding. Chill until set, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.
To make the topping, use a handheld or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment to whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla until it holds firm peaks; the whipped cream should be on the firmer side to make the tart easier to slice. If you take the cream too far and it becomes lumpy, you can rescue it by folding in additional heavy cream until it loosens up again.
Remove the plastic wrap from the tart and spread the cream evenly over the top. Chill the tart for 30 more minutes to set the cream. Place the tart on a cutting board, and use a sharp chef’s knife to slice the tart into wedges, wiping the knife clean between each cut. Drizzle slices generously with more caramel and sprinkle with a pinch or two of flaky salt.
The tart is best on the day of baking, but it will keep, refrigerated airtight, for 2 or 3 days.
CHOCOLATE BERGAMOT TRUFFLE TART WITH OLIVE OIL AND FLAKY SALT
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE}
I don’t like to play favorites, but this tart was a clear winner around our place. My sweetie, who doesn’t have much in the way of a sweet tooth, forbade me from giving any away, and he hoarded the last slice in the fridge for a week before finally polishing it off. I couldn’t really blame him—this tart is pretty one-of-a-kind. A buttery cocoa shortbread crust contrasts the silkiest chocolate truffle filling, and fresh bergamot zest makes the whole thing sing with citrusy floral notes. If you want to gild the lily, top the tart with a drizzle of flavorful olive oil and a few pinches of flaky salt, and serve slender wedges with a billow of softly whipped cream. The complexity of the olive oil plays up the bergamot, the salt adds an addicting crunch and the cream smooths out any rough edges. This tart is all about the chocolate, so use a high-quality brand that you like the taste of on its own. It’s best to buy bars of chocolate and chop them up rather than using chocolate chips, which generally have less flavor and more lecithin to keep them from melting in cookies—not what we want here. If fresh bergamot eludes you, leave it out altogether or try the Earl Grey variation, below.
MAKES ONE 12 BY 4-INCH (30 BY 10-CM) RECTANGULAR TART OR ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND TART, 10-12 SERVINGS
CRUST
1 parbaked 12 by 4-inch (30 by 10-cm) OR 9-inch (23-cm) round Cocoa Almond Tart Crust
FILLING
1¼ cups (295 ml) heavy cream
3 tbsp (45 ml) honey
Finely grated zest from 1 medium bergamot (1 packed tsp)
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
6 oz (170 g) bittersweet chocolate (60-70% cacao mass), roughly chopped (1¼ cups)
1 large egg
FOR FINISHING
¾ cup (180 ml) heavy whipping cream
Really good olive oil
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
For the crust, prepare and parbake the crust as directed. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300°F (150°C).
To make the filling, in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan set over a medium flame, heat the cream with the honey, bergamot zest and salt, swirling occasionally, until hot and steamy. Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 10 minutes.
Place the chocolate in a medium-sized bowl. When the cream has steeped, heat it again until hot and steamy and pour over the chocolate. Let sit for 1 minute, then whisk gently until very smooth. Whisk in the egg, then strain the mixture through a sieve and into a large measuring pitcher. Pour the filling into the hot crust and carefully transfer to the oven. Bake the tart until the filling quivers gently in the center when you give it a jostle and the edges are just set, 10-20 minutes. Let the tart cool completely, then chill until firm, 1-2 hours and up to 1 day.
To serve, use a large, sharp chef’s knife to cut the tart into slender slices, dipping the knife in hot water and wiping it clean between slices for the cleanest cuts. To finish, whip the cream to soft peaks and serve slices of tart with a dollop of cream, a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of flaky salt. The tart is best on the day of baking when the crust is crisp, but extras keep well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 5 days.
VARIATION: EARL GREY CHOCOLATE TART
Black tea adds its malty flavor here while conveying the floral notes of bergamot.
Omit the bergamot, steeping 2 tablespoons (6 g) top-quality Earl Grey tea leaves with the hot cream and honey for 10-20 minutes, or until the cream turns beige. Strain the cream into the chocolate, pressing on the tea to extract all of the flavor, and proceed with the recipe.
FROMAGE BLANC TARTLETS WITH HONEYED KUMQUATS
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
These sunny tartlets make a bright treat for late winter when other citrus and pomes have petered out and rhubarb and berries haven’t yet emerged. Thick honey-kumquat syrup sweetens a cheesecake-like filling and rounds of kumquat flecked with vanilla bean crown the tops. Fromage blanc, also called farmer cheese, tastes a bit like goat cheese without the funk, and it keeps the filling airy and not-too-rich. That said, mascarpone will work in its place. Packaged in buttery almond-flour crusts, these will make you the star of any dinner party. To ease the day-of prep, make the kumquats and prepare and freeze the tartlet crusts up to 1 week ahead. Feel free to bake this in a single 9-inch (23-cm) round tart or pie pan, increasing the bake time as needed.
MAKES EIGHT 4-INCH (10-CM) TARTLETS OR ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8-10 SERVINGS
CRUST
Eight 4-inch (10-cm) or one 9-inch (23-cm) Vanilla Almond Tart Crusts, parbaked
FILLING
1 recipe Honey Candied Kumquats
1 cup (8 oz [225 g]) fromage blanc or mascarpone
Finely grated zest from 1 medium lemon (preferably Meyer)
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
2 tbsp (30 ml) candied kumquat syrup
2 tbsp (30 ml) honey
¾ cup (180 ml) heavy cream
For the crust, prepare and parbake the tart crusts as directed. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment for easy cleanup.
For the filling, prepare the Honey Candied Kumquats and chill until ready to use.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C).
In a large bowl, whisk together the fromage blanc, lemon zest, egg and egg yolk. Whisk in the kumquat syrup and honey, then the cream, whisking until smooth. Divide the filling among the tart crusts, filling them to the top and giving them a gentle shake to even out the custard. (Extra custard can be baked in a small ramekin alongside the tarts.)
Bake the tarts until the filling puffs slightly around the edges and is mostly set when you give the pan a shake, 18-25 minutes (30-35 minutes for a large tart). Remove the tarts from the oven and let cool to room temperature. Carefully remove the rings and bottoms, place the tarts on a small baking sheet and chill until cold, 1 hour.
To serve, place the tarts on plates, spoon over some of the chilled, honeyed kumquats and devour immediately.
The tarts are best the day of baking when the crust is crisp, but they will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.
VARIATION: BERRY FROMAGE BLANC TARTLETS
No kumquats? No worries! Make the filling with 4 tablespoons (60 ml) honey and top the tartlets with fresh summer berries.
GRAPEFRUIT AND ELDERFLOWER CURD TART
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}
When you’re a baker or a cook, you tend to learn about people’s tastes. You learn that Nancy hates rhubarb, or that Joe is allergic to tree nuts. A surprising fact that I recently learned is that several people I know are obsessed with grapefruit. Grapefruit! I love the juice in mimosas, but I never expected people to go so crazy for grapefruit desserts.
Grapefruits, particularly the pale pink variety, come into season in midwinter and remain sweet and delicious through the spring. Their flavor is a complex mix of bitter and astringent, floral and sweet. This tart celebrates grapefruit’s zest and juice with a buttery curd that bursts with intense flavor. Elderflower, here in the form of St-Germain liqueur, makes grapefruit taste even more like itself—like flowers and champagne and old fancy hats in your grandmother’s closet (in a good way). Against a buttery shortbread crust flavored with almond and vanilla, this magical curd will convert the staunchest grapefruit haters, and make its fans supremely happy.
Blood orange juice, if you’ve got it, turns the curd a pretty shade of pink; alternatively, just use more grapefruit juice. This tart needs no accompaniment, but you can gussy up slices with pink grapefruit supremes or a dollop of Whipped Crème Fraîche sprinkled with a few crushed lavender buds, as one of my testers did so prettily.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) TART, 8-10 SERVINGS
One 9-inch (23-cm) Vanilla Almond Tart Crust, parbaked
2 tsp (5 g) packed finely grated pink grapefruit zest (from 1 large or 2 small grapefruit)
¾ cup (180 ml) strained pink grapefruit juice (from 2 medium grapefruit)
¼ cup (60 ml) strained blood orange juice (from 1-2 small blood oranges)
¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
3 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
8 tbsp (113 g) cold, unsalted butter, in
½-inch (1.3-cm) dice
¼ cup (60 ml) St-Germain elderflower liqueur
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Place the parbaked tart crust on a rimmed baking sheet, and if it has cooled, place in the oven to heat for 5-10 minutes before you add the curd; this will help keep the crust crisp.
To make the curd, set a mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl or large measuring cup and set aside.
In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the zest, grapefruit and blood orange juices, sugar, salt, eggs and egg yolks to combine. Place the pot over medium-low heat, and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof silicone spatula, until the mixture thickens slightly and reaches 170°F (77°C) on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 minutes. As you stir, be sure to scrape the entire bottom of the pan and into the corners, so that the mixture heats as evenly as possible. Immediately strain the mixture through the strainer and into the bowl. Stir in the butter pieces until melted, then the liqueur. Cool the curd for 10 minutes.
Pour the slightly cooled curd into the warm tart shell and very carefully transfer it into the oven; it will be very full! Bake the tart until the sides are barely puffed and the tart wobbles like Jell-O when you give it a gentle shake, 18-25 minutes. It should not be wet or watery (underbaked), nor should it be puffed in the center or cracking (overbaked).
Remove the tart from the oven and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Remove the tart sides by placing the tart atop a large can or small, inverted bowl and gently easing the sides from the tart. Chill the tart until firm, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. Cut into wedges and serve. The tart is best within the first 2 days of baking, but keeps well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.